Well, the look was what i was going for, only the recipient thought it might be too "frou-frou" for him.
So frog-pond-time. This by the way is the drawback with the "cut every row" method, short bits. In my case, having 216 st plus 2 8 in ends meant they weren't horribly short, but still. The ends are set aside in case of emergency. Luckily i hadn't gotten much past 4 rows!
Redesign is now to knit with 2 strands, as shown in the picture. Having only 1 ball of each color, that means knitting from inside of ball and outside simultaneously. It also shows off this yarn, as it doesn't catch or pull or fuzz or cause trouble as lower quality yarn might under the same circumstances.
Cast on 216 st with 2 strands of A (shadows) kid merino - picture shows the 2 strands.
Also remember to leave that ~8-10 in tail at the beginning and end of the row to make fringe.
(that's right, CUT).
Place marker to show start and front.
Row 2: With A, purl 1 row, leaving an 8-10 in tail at the beginning and end of the row.
Row 3: With A, knit 1 row, leaving an 8-10 in tail at the beginning and end of the row.
Row 4: Work in K2, P2 double-moss st across the row, again leaving an 8-10 in tail at the beginning and end of the row.
Row 5: Turn, and now work in P2, K2 double moss st across the row, again leaving an 8-10 in tail at the beginning and end of each row.
Change to color B: black and with 2 strands, start the "C2F block" pattern.
The "C2F block" pattern is worked as 5 rows Black (B), then 5 rows Shadows (A) for at least 2 repeats.
Pattern: always leave ~8-10 in fringe tail at beginning and end of row.
C2F block pattern.
Row 1: K4, P4 across.
Row 2: You don't have to turn - instead return to the marker on right side of front. Again join your yarn, and work K4, P4 across
Rows 3 and 4: Same as rows 1 and 2.
Row 5: K4, P4, now work C2F cable blocks across thusly:
*(put first 2 K st on holder in front, K2, K2 from holder, P4)* across. Do not cable the first or last K4 on needle.
Row 6: Change colorways. Work across as P4,K4.
Rows 7, 8, 9: P4, K4. This means to P the purls and K the knits - with directions written assuming you never work from the back side, but always begin from the front side).
Row 10: C2B round. (Remember not to cable in the first or last 4 st.)
P4, *(place next 2 Kst on holder at front of work, K2, K the 2 from holder, P4), and work this C2B block across.
Now, work these 10 rows, changing colors at rows 1 and 6, for at least 2 repeats of each color.
Work rows 1-5 once more (in Black) and check your width against mental image. We may stop here and return to mirror the rows from other edge.
p.s. yes, the cables don't show clearly in the black, but they add a textural dimension and i know they're there. You'll see them in the other colorway.
pps. don't forget that on our other blog Socks and More we will be having a Win Panda Silk contest- post comments starting midnite 9-30-07/